Salt
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Yellow highlight | Location: 376Options go get yourself some kosher or sea salt right away. Yellow highlight | Location: 385Options these two salts are not interchangeable! For this book, I tested all the recipes with Diamond Crystal, Yellow highlight | Location: 406Options Keep two kinds of salt on hand: an inexpensive one such as bulk-bin sea salt or kosher salt for everyday cooking, and a special salt with a pleasant texture, such as Maldon salt or fleur de sel, for garnishing food at the last moment. Yellow highlight | Location: 422Options Keep adding salt, and tasting, until you get that zing! This is how you’ll learn to salt “to taste.” When a recipe says “season to taste,” add enough salt until it tastes right to you. Yellow highlight | Location: 426Options also reduces our perception of bitterness, with the secondary effect of emphasizing other Yellow highlight | Location: 429Options See for yourself with a little tonic water, Campari, or grapefruit juice, all of which are both bitter and sweet. Yellow highlight | Location: 490Options This same chemical process is the secret to brining, Yellow highlight | Location: 504Options The larger, denser, or more sinewy the piece of meat, the earlier you should salt it. Oxtails, shanks, and short ribs can be seasoned a day or two in advance to allow salt time to do its work. A chicken for roasting can be salted the day before cooking, while Thanksgiving turkey should be seasoned two, or even three, days in advance. Yellow highlight | Location: 517Options Inch-thick steaks of meatier fish, such as tuna and swordfish, can be salted up to thirty minutes ahead. Season all other seafood at the time of cooking to preserve textural integrity. Yellow highlight | Location: 543Options In order to preserve the texture of mushrooms, wait to add salt until they’ve just begun to brown in the pan. Yellow highlight | Location: 552Options the water for boiling grains such as rice, farro, or quinoa can be salted less aggressively than the water for blanching vegetables. In preparations where all of the cooking water will be absorbed, and hence all of the salt, be particularly careful not to overseason. Yellow highlight | Location: 594Options But taste potatoes that were simmered in salted water for a little while before being roasted, and you’ll be shocked by the difference—salt will have made it all the way into the center, doing its powerful work of seasoning from within along the way. Yellow highlight | Location: 614Options “How can I season this from within?” Yellow highlight | Location: 648Options My general ratios for measuring salt are simple: 1 percent salt by weight for meats, vegetables, and grains, and 2 percent salinity for water for blanching vegetables and pasta.

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